Black and white. Fausto Puglisi found a taste for the graphic combination in the Emanuel Ungaro archives, re-proposing it alongside an idea of strong femininity inspired by Helmut Newton’s photos and Charlotte Rampling’s androgynous charm. The key piece, the tuxedo, came in infinite varieties: black jacket with contrasting lapels and fluid high-waist trousers or, swapping things around, a white jacket with black lapels and trousers; a white jumpsuit with crossover neckline or, in place of the trousers, long pleated skirts, all with a contrasting silk band at the waist. Other frequent motifs were polka dots, which decorated hat veils and turned into metal eyelets on shirts and long leather gloves, a jacquard motif on knits, furry tufts on outerwear, precious embroidery or sequin appliqués on tops and plissé mini-skirts, which also featured on blouses and shirts.