‘Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?’; the question posed by art historian Linda Nochlin in her essay on the shortage of women in the art establishment was emblazoned on the first look in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s show for Dior, a Breton top tucked into high-waist jeans. Chiuri is accustoming her audience to a feminine and feminist approach made up of slogans and a style aimed at the new generations. This time, the inspiration came from Niki de Saint Phalle, whose colourful, phantasmagorical work embellished plissé tulle skirts with unmistakable visible underwear, T-shirts and crew neck sweaters, and the sparkling mini-mosaic looks in the finale. Overall, this was a varied show that mixed denim pieces, tailored outfits with a Bar jacket, black biker garments, romantic polka dots blouses and glittery mini-dresses – all topped off with berets with a little veil and lace-up fishnet boots. In short, a “difficult but exciting exercise between tradition and the future.”