The moment in which one day dies and another begins. When midnight strikes, someone presses reset. This is when Costume National lives. At 00:00. Ennio Capasa’s studied minimalism goes nocturnal and mixes up the genders. All in black – double wool and duchesse silk fabrics, leather and jersey, pinstripe jacquard in chenille and techno fleece, lurex and silk satin lend a certain aplomb and a determined air. The lean coats, biker jackets with double zip or with piercing insets and zipped blouses infuse just the energy needed to face those days when it is always midnight. Masculine, skinny or jogging trousers and split skirts, ruches or panels gave a sharp, resolute edge. But it was the little details in the deconstruction that made these looks irresistibly magnetic: jackets seemingly buttoned up wrongly, rows of buttons aligned horizontally, missing lapels, asymmetric hemlines, controlled swellings.