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Editorial

Rei Kawakubo, one of fashion’s great seers, rang a loud alarm bell about today’s dangers and fears, including environmental destruction, escalating militarism and violence of all kinds, representing them on the runway like shadows, malign forces in total black. The clothes were sculptural wrappings that revealed glimpses of the body in fishnet knits and tights. There were fetish harnesses, protective armour along the shoulders and hips, hoods and headpieces midway between spacey and ecclesiastical. Also pseudo-Victorian dresses complete with crinoline, bubble skirts held up by braces, de-boned jackets layered over dresses, tailored jackets from which hooks, gilt cherubs, and door latches hung. Were these flashes of light on black a sign of hope? Or a kind of amulet to counter all the evil and darkness?