Following seventeen years at the brand, Christopher Bailey is leaving Burberry with a collection about the future and positivity. This ‘see now, buy now’ show was all about brightly-coloured optimism and a social message: the brand’s iconic tartan gained a rainbow tint in support of LGBTQ+ rights. Burberry reinvented the blanket idea and worked colours, archive details and prints into it. Outerwear dominated the show. There were oversize trenches, military coats, and shearling aviator jackets. Cloaks were long, capes were patchwork and sweaters came with pop prints. When it came to combinations, anything went: sweatshirts were teamed with embroidered jacquard dresses and sparkling appliqués, long tiered skirts were worn with electric blue cardigans. The bold, iridescent palette included glossy vermilion, Klein blue, intense green and purple.
“It was really me, aged 15,” laughs Christopher Bailey about his new Burberry collection, which combines working class streetwear from the ’80s and ’90s. Iconic oversize logo sweatshirts and baseball caps were mixed and clashed in a game of layering. There were also light zipped anoraks in patchwork, kilts or other types of skirts worn over trousers, vintage knits and cardigans worn together, harlequin patterned XL sweaters and so on. The rainbow motif featured throughout, a symbol of gay pride that Bailey chose to feature in his last collection for the brand he is leaving after 17 years.