Irony is always a winning card at Au jour le jour, the fresh colourful brand designed by Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana. Rather than fill their outfits with symbols, as they have done in the past, the duo opted for the rebus for next season. Semi-transparent organza dresses speak more eloquently if the eye follows the arrows. There were no suits; just jackets worn on their own as masculine dresses, adding a sexy edge. Some of the long and short slip dresses were embellished with elongated, hanging sequins. The patently fake furs were in line with the collection’s fun-loving spirit while the coats and some of the grey pieces brought a sober touch. A denim jacket with fur collar, dungarees and high-waist jeans were very ’90s. In the absence of any real evening dresses, long linear tunics shot through with zips were more like workwear or for fashion victims.