Antonio Marras is always transported by a muse or a great inspiration. This time the designer’s source was botanist Eva Mameli, the first woman to hold a university professorship, producing a collection that spoke of independence in the language of nature. Shapes and lines were soft and suited to any time of the day. Every piece featured a flower, whether embroidered, printed or stitched, and the colours were earthy and autumnal – brown, mud, beige, bordeaux, copper, green – alongside various shades of pink, yellow and cobalt that had the intensity of daylight. Patterns and fabrics were mixed: stripes and madras met velvet and jacquard, fur combined with broadcloth, and lozenges with tulle. The hemlines were all knee-length, but some transparency at times revealed almost all of the legs. The look and feel was early 20th century, despite the denim and down jacket.