‘PARIS WOMAN’

PARIS WOMEN COLLECTIONS AUTUMN/WINTER 2012.13

A reactive woman finally taking action: this is the message behind the Paris trends for next autumn/winter.
The times when we gazed admiringly at couture clothes are over and the runways are now grasping l’esprit du temps to produce collections for feminine yet assertive women.
This explains the need to wear trousers as men never dare to do: ironic suits, tie prints and opulent decorations satisfy a desire for coquettishness that the crisis will never succeed in quelling.
This is not nostalgia, as often happened in the Noughties, but looking forward to try out new languages in a bid to be reborn and to find new visions of unexplored areas of creativity.
Venus as a boy features classic menswear pieces, first and foremost the trouser suit, reworked and deconstructed to adapt to a modern version that’s girly, urban and colourful.Accumulation, layering and opulent embroidery are the key words for crystal power, a veritable triumph of Baroque appliqués, fringes, pearls, glitter and stones, both precious and not.

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FACE TO FACE – ROLAND MOURET

Before making your name as a designer you did many different jobs, including butcher’s assistant in your father’s shop, model, stylist and art director. How did these experiences mould your creative identity?

I find it quite exciting and intriguing because you realize with time that every job you’ve done has given you something and I use it in some way to work with people as a designer. If there is one thing I’ve learned as a waiter it’s that you don’t come back with your hands empty when you serve a customer. If I have done something, I’ll come back all the time with something else in my hands because I don’t want to walk twice with the same thing. You learn a lot from past experiences and past jobs. And don’t think that, just because it’s not what you want to be doing in your life, then it doesn’t help you to shape yourself.

Sinuous and hourglass lines, body-con and seductive shapes, elegant yet sexy looks: your aesthetic is well-defined and reflects your love for the female body. How do you design and construct your clothes?

I design my clothes in three dimensions all the time. I never draw a trace, I work around a body. I start on a dummy and afterwards on a real person. And it’s got all the time the same attitude of a square fabric draping around the female form. That’s why my shape is really specific and my draping is something I give a lot of myself to, I like to create myself.

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